Saturday 18 August 2012

Lahore with a Bite



Lahore, La- hore, the heart of Punjab and therefore also the land of the pure; The city has always had a mystical halo around it; history suggests the city’s original name, "Loh" or "Lava", was named after the son of Rama, one of the Gods from the Hindu tradition, the name is seen in the ancient scriptures of the Ramayana.

There are many faces of this city, and it would be difficult to capture them in any one piece; nevertheless, I had the fortune of a view through a window now perhaps half shut,  ‘Lava’s’ world of Urdu writing, literature and creativity.

No longer on Mall Road, the literary cafes, Intizar Husain graciously met my friends and I in his Shaadman home. His home piled up with books from top to bottom the Deon of Urdu fiction was equally amused at entertaining our curious questions. An open house to those still interested in literary discourse; vivid and clear memories of old ‘Loh’ were revealing and reaffirmed how the city’s culture has irrevocably shifted since ‘Independence’.

Independent movie artists, and Urdu writers gather at Nairang Gallery every Sunday, to ‘hang’ and remind themselves, yes in spite of the stifling smoke of the city’s haze, genteel ideas have a corner still. Surprisingly, the restoration of the famed ‘Pak Tea house’ was of little interest to those who were its luminaries’.  At Nairang, Nayar Ali Dada, gratefully created a space for those who freely gather and banter about all things culture and literature. The gallery is adorned with art, furniture and a few books for those who would like to peruse.

Amidst, bookshelves and old Lahori furniture, Aqeel Ruby, Zahid Dar, Ikramullah, Eruj Mubarak, Khalid Ahmed and more discuss, over a simple cup of tea and pakoras,  the state of Urdu fiction writing in Pakistan. Not too bright but still hopeful, the conversation continues. I heard and observed two facts;  the group’s  average age was 70 years old and Pakistan has no ‘independent of Government Literary Award’. Hmmm Wow. Why?

A delightful evening with a young lawyer cum poet- of Urdu, was also insightful.  The language Urdu, in its contemporary form, has limited tools to express, explore and espouse modern ideas and realities we live in NOW. Why I asked? Rational argument, the process of a logical progression of thought is rare in Urdu prose. There is no original philosophical thought, ideas, and tools developed in Urdu. Moreover, the reality of modern life, lifestyles, and individual feelings are rarely explored in contemporary Urdu fiction. The use of allegory, poetry and suggestion is preferred- an avoidance tactic, one could say, however beautifully evoked or constructed.

 The world of fiction is a reflection of the pen’s worldview. The language must expand to include new social, intellectual and contemporary lived experiences and more importantly, allow it to influence the world of  the language and hence the writing- otherwise the thought tools will remain time-bound and limited.  If the body of work remains nostalgic, and its narrative restricted the Adab will also.

The contemporary writers in Urdu cannot or do not explore social issues ‘outside’ of the ‘accepted’ norms determined by writers  primarily before 1947 or through the 1960s only. The necessary evolution of writing since then is absent. How apt yet ironic that even in the world of the artist the heavy hand of the  ‘censor’ has  penetrated to stunt the development of how we communicate amongst ourselves in Pakistan. George Orwell would be proud. History will not remember us.


Pakistani exceptionalism , a concept I revisited while in Lahore. Most Urdu writers’ audiences are in India, why, because the readership market is larger, and if the body of work is decent it will be translated into Hindi and possibly other regional languages. Fact. To remain alive these are simple realities of Urdu writers, (the lingua franca of  the land of the pure). Moreover, literarily, the most  respected critics of Urdu writing are in India. Exceptional we maybe, since the Urdu writers of  ‘note’ are in Pakistan, but certainly Urdu, remains alive and thrives, because we maintain our natural and historical links with next door.

A biting incident took me to a Christian Hospital in Gulberg. Deserted, clean and run down I was treated by two smiling lady nurses. Throughout my treatment, I couldn’t remove the image of Mohammad Hanif’s Book  ‘Alice Bhatti’ ; I asked them if they had read  his book, very amused they replied with a shake of their heads. The cost of my treatment Rs.100. Exceptional. How can a medical establishment run on such returns? I was also surprised at the absence of any patients in a hospital in the middle of the city?

As  I drove out of the city along the Canal,  negotiating through the insane traffic of animals and like minded vehicles, I wished some day, my generation could also witness the glory and culture that once walked and breathed in this grand city, instead of reading or hearing of it, that too in the historical sense, wondering if that was really possible in Lahore.


Friday 3 August 2012

Sea, by a city called Karachi.




My impressions of Karachi have changed.

A fishing village a hundred years ago, today is completely bereft of a seaside culture. A very strange phenomena; but then Pakistan never ceases to amaze.

There are no seaside cafes as such, no sea sports or sportsmen/women/children noticeable anywhere. The public beaches are frequented primarily by burka clad, high shallu wearing families strolling along the outskirts of the sea and beaches; very incongruently and awkwardly engaging with nature’s source of life. Occasionally a child will rush into the waves out of curiosity and quickly retreat in response to worried cries. The Maya Khans of the world have ensured the few adventurers or romantics will never be swaying hand in hand along the waves of Sea view.

Of course this is completely not the experience of many Karachites who don’t share public spaces with the many. The hut culture, the private beach parties and GTs don’t quite contribute to the ‘feel’ of a city; that’s inside stuff, hence I exclude it from the ‘Karachi as it is seen.
   
What I enjoy about this megla polis is its multi cultures; segregated by ethnicity and religion, but the milieu is nevertheless fascinating. Sufi shrines at so many corners, with traditions and rituals so specific to each, one can't be blamed if one thought how powerful rituals have overtaken the spiritual. An Italian convert and a mureed visiting a ‘saint’s’ grave everyday to wash and cover it with fresh flowers for 30 years; has found a following of her own, by amazed bewildered and awe struck locals. Paying homage to ‘Qalandars’ of the water, Karachites, feed crows and fish at ‘Netty Jetty’ (netty having come from ‘native’) to wade away ‘evil eyes’.  The city is full of mystery, rituals and folklore. 

Ranchore Line a neighbourhood with Shia Boras living alongside their Imambaras and five beautiful Hindu temples and its communities, is special; the Rangers are visibly all over, reminding us the communities may have lived here for generations but perhaps aren’t too friendly any longer. The kind of garbage and the heaps piled outside the Mandirs are also testament of disregard, disrespect and pure civic apathy.

Conversations about civic social responsibility are also interesting in this city. Private neighbourhood committees in Mohammad Ali colony, primarily an ‘Urdu speaking area’ share their views on the new ‘dirty Memons’ who have moved in recently and will not pay Rs.50 per month to clean the neighbourhood garbage.  Such clear-cut ethnic geography and anthropology is bewildering to an Islooite’ or just naïve to think caste was left behind with partition.

Memories of Burmese Muslims who moved into P.E.C.H in the 1960s are very insightful; I am curious given the focus it has garnered in our public forums. It is a small community in Karachi. Some of them are ‘Irani’ some from ‘Silit’. The community is tight nit and practising. Memories of Burma from a member of the community,  Temples, Pagodas and Mosques side by side, but there were clashes between Muslims and Buddhists for sometime, primarily because Muslims were uncomfortable with ‘idol’ worshippers and tried to intrude and convert. These influences of ‘seeing differences’ and trying to change the equilibrium of religious tolerance are blamed on outside money and outside Muslim clerics. Interesting, the observation of the Buddhist monks attacking the Burmese Muslims was doubted, Burmese monks don’t wear brown habits, which is what the monks were wearing in the video.

A city which had 13cafes and bookstores on just one street, Regal Road (now chowk) today has, the lone pre partition bookstore Thomas and Thomas amidst the electronic khokas run by beards & paan chewing hawkers; completely bewildered why Mr. Naqvi refuses to pack up with next to no customers frequenting his very quaint literary establishment. I suppose it is because of Mr. Naqvi and his ilk, that a city develops and maintains its character. Kudos to Mr. Naqvi and his perseverance.

I love sweets. I don’t appreciate the nerve numbing fructose overdose of the Pakistani variety. In Gulsan e Iqbal, at Dacca sweets, on the other hand, the ‘Bingos’  have brought a little of Cal or Dhaka  with their Sandesh and  metha dhai which is just… divine.

The Dhaaba, Biryani of the Seas, not by the sea, but along posh Bath Island serves gorgeous, mouth watering seafood grilled, fried and in biryanis; interesting was the Goan curry, although not so Goan, but the variety of South Indian coastal cuisine on the menu.

Karachi, outwardly sea less, a city under siege by the beards, and thugs is layered by so many cultures and yet, looking for a Sindhi restaurant in the city is impossible; finding a scholar on Hinduism outside the Temples is next to impossible; but in these contradictions and within the city’s energy there is still hope.

Thursday 26 July 2012

Ramzan Time




We can’t eat in Ramzan- publically, why? There is no compulsion in religion and since when has ritual become religion?  Hence the Ehteram-e-Ramadan (reverence of Fasting) Ordinance, issued in 1981, makes no sense.
Those who believe, acknowledge there are many who can’t fast even if they wanted too. Those who choose not too, why should public spaces, habits, and services seize for them? No one is preventing anyone from fasting; so why should those who choose not to fast be ‘prevented’ from functioning as they do normally?

And We have made every man's actions to cling to his neck, and We will bring forth to him on the Resurrection Day a book which he will find wide open. Read your book; your own self is sufficient as a reckoner against you this Day."
Holy Qur'an (17:13-14)


The month of ramzan is a period of reflection, meditation, introspection and soul searching. The point of fasting and what we ‘gain from this process’ cannot be achieved by imposing a code and forced public behavioural norms that are untruthful. As a community, hypocrisy has become a way of life now; say you believe, dress to be seen to believe and believe what you will. As long as the facade is publically maintained the intent and spirit be damned.

"O you who believe! Fasting is prescribed for you as it was prescribed for those before you, that you may become Al-Muttaqun (the pious).
(Fasting) for a fixed number of days, but if any of you is ill or on a journey, the same number……And as for those who can fast with difficulty, (i.e. an old man, etc.), they have (a choice either to fast or) to feed a poor person (for every day). But whoever does good of his own accord, it is better for him. And that you fast, it is better for you if only you know." (2:183-84)


It is deeply disturbing and sad that we live with this hypocritical attitude and our children grow up with learning and imbibing these double standards and observe superficial notions of what religion, rituals and faith has become in the Islamic republic of Pakistan.


‘Allah intends for you ease, and He does not want to make things difficult for you. ..’ (2: 185).


Muslim identity has become so fragile, that its markers have been reduced to outwardly behaviour only. No longer can we distinguish between hypocrisy, truth or falsehood.

The uproar around Veena Malik’s program on Express News and the complete silence on Amer Liaqat’s on Geo is a prime example of the absence of moral judgement in general and in the month of ramzan in particular. None of the television channel owners have made decisions that would send out appropriate messages to its viewers, neither have the advertisement agencies signalled with their withdrawal of support for programs and anchors, which are merely masquerading, perpetuating a farce, in the month of deep introspection and reflection. Public viewers don’t seem to have a mechanism to respond either? The public has little if any control or ability to respond to those who beam without any regard to content or the messengers they choose.

The Quran forbids us from judging others. This has been expressed in many verses.

Say: "I am no bringer of new-fangled doctrine among the apostles, nor do I know what will be done with me or with you. God is the ONLY one who can judge humans.(46:9)

Then it will be for (only) Us to call them to account. (88:26)


There is no running away from the truth. Pakistan and certainly Islam will not wither away by public eating during the month of ramzan nor will open discussions on television about the meanings this month has for all Muslims, including Veena Malik. Our faith and our religion are open to interpretation by all who choose to explore Mohammad’s (pbuh) revelation. There can be no judgement by anyone but that of our Lord's and to him only we turn too. The decision is personal and not the State’s to make. Respect us all.

Friday 6 July 2012

Friday 22 June 2012

Weep Democrats in Pakistan!


Nilofer’s Corner

Weep Democrats in Pakistan.

June 22nd 2012:  211 Members of The National Assembly of The Islamic Republic of Pakistan elected MNA Raja Parvaiz Ashraf, aka ‘Raja Rental’ as our Democratic Prime Minister; a discredited corrupt individual who was dismissed from the PPP led Cabinet as a result of his corruption.  The National Accountability Bureau received millions of rupees from 'Raja Rental' in return for amnesty against ‘some ‘ of his corruption cases.

In spite; Asif Ali Zardari is hell bent on bringing forward those forces in this very fragile society who believe this country cannot be Democratic and can only be ‘saved by the security establishment’. 

This political party which touts democratic credentials and at every opportunity screams victimhood and defends corruption of all its elected members will be responsible for ending any democratic development this country can begin evolving towards.

What is most disturbing are the Liberal and democratic individuals who continue to support this political party and its current policies. Conspiracy theories with substance abound that the Boots will be stepping in to ‘save’ this country from this spiraling mis governance and economic crisis. What is completely absent is the responsibility of these 300 elected members if this nightmare unfolds Again   continued uncritical and absolute support for this corrupt PPP and its Alliance is criminal and paving the way for the boots returning to Pakistan.

Democracy does not mean keeping in office 300 odd members of Parliament in business. Democracy means working towards improving the basic needs of 180 million souls starving for justice. No excuses. If you cannot translate your ‘supposed democratic and liberal values’ into policies and actions then this political party and its supporters need to reflect upon the consequences. Leave the business of governance to those who can amongst you. Leave it to those who have the guts to take the risks necessarily to change the lives of ordinary Pakistanis for the better.

As democrats there is logic why we support this means of governance. It is suppose to ensure accountability and ensure a better life for every citizen equally. That means condemning the murders of your Governor and Minister of Minority Affairs alongside those MNAs who have their sisters married to the Qur’an. It means firing those responsible for keeping OBL safe in Pakistan for five years. If you espouse democratic values then prove it! Its not complicated.

Democracy is a system in which ousting those who do not work in the interests of the nation- is automatic. That means ensuring those who flout the laws of the land do not represent the nation!

Democracy is supposed to reflect the views, needs and future of its people. If this is absent in Parliament and the personal interests of just 300 is its purpose- why do Democrats support this farcical lot?

The myths of better governance by the undemocratic military regimes not withstanding, the inability of public scrutiny of the Military institutionalized and not so institutionalized corruption, is strengthen by the absolute despicable disregard of basic moral ethical behavior by our elected members. 

Asif Zardari chose out of 190 members of Parliament; that One who represents all that is disgusting. Rental Raja is now supposed to lead the Nation out of the power crisis he is partially responsible for? Punjab, Sindh, Baluchistan, KPK are burning, violence is rampant, frustration is at an all time out of control level and Zaradari asks the people to eat Cake; in the name of democracy. If this isn’t a red rag in front of a frustrated bull I don’t know what is? What does Democracy mean in Pakistan?  Weep Pakistani Democrats weep.

Tuesday 19 June 2012

Need for Heroes in Pakistan?


Nilofer’s Corner


Need for Heroes in Pakistan?


I suppose in a feudal semi literate country, more accurately a society, a single Leader or Heroes are essential? The need to follow is a serious hindrance in this land of pure. In constant wait, despair has set in. The inability to move forward, or struggle out of this malaise and inertia has become critical. This existential crisis is eating away the mental and psychological body politik of Pakistan.

As a coping mechanism frustration has translated into violent behavior. No mama or papa has emerged to lead the children out of these dark times. Chaos exists. In this purgatory we remain and wait.

Some of the Heroes’ of our time, South Africa’s Nelson Mandala, Tibet’s His Holiness the Dalai Lama, Burma’s Aung San Suu Kyi, and perhaps our very own Abdul Satar Edhi; what lessons can we learn from their lives- to get out of this purgatory?

Each one of these Heroes did not wait for a movement to act according to their conscious. They followed no Heroes. They waited for no one.

Conscious were led by convictions which looked beyond the welfare of their personal lives. All of them sacrificed tremendously, but continued to struggle and were rewarded by the overwhelming support of the public-eventually.

The societies’ they came from are/were repressive, oppressive and perhaps look as if they would never change-certainly not by one person’s opposition! That assumption was proven wrong in the end. They succeeded in their endeavors in-spite of all the challenges they faced.

The manner in which each one of these great individuals conducted their struggle has been politically counter intuitive. There is no Machiavellian theory that can ‘explain’ their success. There is nothing status quo or real politik that can analyze the successes of these individuals. They represent an idea. A movement led by their behavior but based on an idea of change. They never faltered or compromised on those ideas.

Most inspiring of all the qualities they possess, is the sheer will power, which moved nations towards change. The moral integrity they relied upon never faltered.

Most pertinent for us in Pakistan, none of them relied on outside foreign aid, far from it; foreign aid in many instances supported those who crushed their ideas. In the face of overwhelming challenges, economic sanctions, power of the state they maintained a staunch perseverance. The people were the source of the strength and change-not money or political maneuvering.

Their notions of national interests are human interest. Not strategic or regional or nuclear. Just simply the well being of the average jo smo next door; rich or poor; men or women; good old fashion dignity, freedom and prosperity for all.  Peace at all cost!

None of these individuals played to the gallery, or colluded strategically with any segment of the establishment of their oppressive and regressive regimes. They didn’t play ‘politics’ they weren’t playing a game and yet they were not delusional, they weren’t idealistic; they simply did what was needed to be done for their community. Simple.

Lesson for Pakistanis’. Don’t wait for anyone to show you the way. You are a Hero. Be a Hero.

Saturday 16 June 2012

Deciphering "Gates"


Nilofer’s Corner


Deciphering ‘Gates’


Since the revelations (peace upon who did) of Malik Riaz’s generosity (s) towards our power elites have surfaced, the theories of Why dominates most reasonable analysts mind space? Who is behind this ‘conspiracy’ or attempt to bring some ‘institution(s) into disrepute’?

Most of what occurs in Pakistan seems complicated but is not necessarily. We are a Security State in which one institution has dominated and owned the nation’s discourse, narrative and future.  That is clear.

The media although rowdy, obsessive and unprofessional in many instances, is but a reflection of Pakistan’s social, ethical and educational state of affairs. Rational, responsible, mature behavior is absent amongst our elected folks too, certainly amongst our security establishment, always reminding us, who is against us, how many enemies we actually have; hence those whose job it is to ‘report’ ‘investigate’ and ‘inform’ the public are naturally pulled into this psychological pathological ‘gandh’ as well.

The people, most of the 180 million souls either gape in continued disgust at those who rule over them; or have very little interest in what is happening at the centers of power while struggling with basic needs of their families. This of course I am also assuming! Because their is no mechanism to gauge the general public’s sentiments. Neither are their voices represented on television, print or in Parliament, thus I am assuming those most disenfranchised would care very little of revelations of moral and financial corruption in a state which they’ve seen only to be just that.

How do we begin to decipher what is happening in an environment where everyone seems to be on speed, acid or perhaps just bi-polar? To begin with any ‘evaluation’ of behaviour  necessitates a berometer of normal. Since we have little reference to ‘right ‘ or wrong’ or what  constitutes ‘crossing any redlines’, it becomes next to impossible to ‘judge’; what could possibly be a reason for an ‘action or a behaviour’ cannot be truly understood because baseline behavioural patterns are unclear?  

Ok so my two cents on the various ‘gates’ we are obsessing over these days; my premise has always been the number one puppet master in our country has been the security establishment. All things odious lead back to them.

 So why would they ‘allow’ Malik Riaz to go nuts with accusations, proofs and bring many institutions they use manage and need into disrepute? The natural answer is that a message is being sent to the Courts that stop your interference in x y z since we  have proof that you /your family are no better than we are.  Hence shattering the image  of the Courts in the eyes of the public has become necessary. Ending the Public’s romance with an active ‘saviour’ judiciary is critical in insuring that no ‘regime fundamentals’ change occurs. 

Pakistan’s obsession or cultural need to have a leader in shining armour continues, and hence shattering the credibility of the seemingly ‘clean dude in town’ (well at least post 2007/Long March avatar) the Chief Justice, leading his band of go get all who are corrupt in Pakistan, has now become necessary?

BUT it still doesn’t make rational sense! Why you ask? Well I assume you do ask?

Malik Riaz is a creation of all things ‘Behria’. Got that. He has proof of EVERYONE’s greasy fingers. Ok got that too. But once the floodgates of who has benefited from MR actually opens, it will ALSO include our number one Holy CoWs not so hidden secrets to emerge in the public. Thus in the 60 odd years where we have never been ‘allowed’ to discuss, inquire, let alone prosecute the security establishment’s involvement in financial corruption such as land grabbing, institutionalised corruption with perks, privillages, domination in public enterprises and the insidious control over those who ‘legally manage’ the state of Pakistan why would a process leading to them be ‘allowed ‘?

How will these free for all revelations be ‘managed’ and not lead to the puppet master number 1?  One possible theory on how  ‘controlling’ the consequences of these leaks is possible; this is only a staged partial ‘cleanup’ of uncomfortable actors, along with a  very clear message of flexing muscles, reminding those who need to be reminded who is Boss in Pakistan!

Thus this is no free fall, no green light for those who came into the profession of journos to actually go do your work -in peace! Na baba na; it is perhaps a very public show of power, to perhaps Dunya television for example,  and to some anchors in particular, certainly the Courts and some judges in particular.

The silence by the owners of the media outlets both in print and on air is also telling. Sitting in the corner and listening to signals is probably the best option for there collective interests?

There is absolutely no proof or evidence that these series of ‘gates’ has initiated a process of self reflection or correction inside of or amongst the Judiciary or the corporate Media. Hence the ‘message’ we can read by these ‘inactions’ as a reaction to these ‘gates’ are what?

First, there is a puppet master operating and in control of what was going to be released to the public. Second, the public is embroiled in revelations which they knew existed but have irrefutable proof of  now. Third, this kind of chaos and undermining of all public office holders feeds into the very dangerous support to undemocratic forces in Pakistan. Fourth, the security establishment is flexing its muscles. Fifth, unless some amongst the franchised elite ‘react’ to the puppet master’s game plans nothing will change in terms of Pakistan’s trajectory towards no where. Finally, message has been received and acknowledged.