Monday 28 May 2012

PTI Jalsa at Liaqat Bagh


Nilofer’s Corner
PTI Jalsa at Liaqat Bagh

I tagged along to the PTI Jalsa at the infamous Liaqat Bagh with a little trepidation. Two Prime Ministers had lost their lives there and with our famed law and order situation well it seemed a tad risky. Nevertheless, so many had been planning to go so I thought challo let what has to be Be!
The journey from Chak Shezad all the way to Liaqat Bagh was a sight to see; cars, vans, motorcycles all carrying PTI Red Green and White flags flew everywhere  Wow! I didn’t realize how big this gathering was going to be; the sense of anticipation building up! What was incredible was the sense of comradeships between all  on the road, all hooting honking waving at each other, all smiles cheeky and all! At one point a very excited pedestrian decided to leap into the back of a truck in front of us, correctly assuming he’d hitch a ride all the way to the Jalsa. Where otherwise a fight would have broken out we all just laughed! 
It was heart-warming to see Pakistanis excited and out! Cars from all directions moving towards one point, one goal inspired- for a change! As we parked and walked towards the Park, the streets were full of stalls, hawkers of all sorts, selling their wares, food, badges, scarves, t-shirts all on sale. We had walked into a festival not a political rally! Kids, young and old, families, men and women all dressed in green red white, many with painted faces wearing T-shirts of Imran Khan and PTI surrounded us! I don’t know if Jalsas are usually so full of positive energy, but this promised to be one entertaining one!
I had heard on Twitter that PTI had paid young folk Rs 300 to attend the Jalsa, and were enticing bored Pakistanis with some musical entertainment?! Of course I immediately began to investigate and asked random people around me why did they come, had they any incentive to attend? A couple of friends were also tasked to randomly ask people similar questions. Unfortunate for those who would like to have these allegations confirmed, not one person we asked answered in the affirmative.
We entered the Bagh; thousands of people were sitting, running around with flags, men and women all together. We had entered in to a square ground which was by 6pm pretty packed! I don’t know how all those outside were going to fit into this ground?  I suppose the speakers would ensure the speakers would be heard outside as well. The security was quite slim; there were policemen and women frisky you when you entered but that were the last I saw of them in the 5 hours we were there.
Someone approached us to guide us if we wanted to go to a women’s enclosure. We choose not to and decided to grab the few chairs left in the center of the Bagh. I have never seen so many flags waving. Kids on top of 100 feet trees, all I could think of was, don’t fall! How they climbed up and down like squirrels’ was quite a sight! Youth! What they can do!
Pumped music between speeches  indicated the next speaker on the podium;  Khan sahib was expected at 8pm. Curious kids approached us, supporters of the party chit chatted, some had been at the Bagh since the morning, having traveled from  KPK and Punjab. Folks from all over the country had driven up to show their support for PTI.
What did PTI mean to them I wondered? The overwhelming sentiment amongst the teenagers and there were hundreds who were visibly very excitable just wanted a change and ‘khan sahib was clean’ the rest of them are ‘lotas’. It was incredible the resentment towards politicians who didn’t have loyalty to a single party.  Something to think about for the PTI leadership.
At Imran Khan’s arrival the capacity full ground just burst into hysteria! Ah I thought he’s arrived. His speech which referred to tax evasion resonated so strongly in the crowd another round of hysteria erupted. Before Imran could continue his message he had to command them to be quiet and sit down quietly. For the first time I witnessed the power he actually had over people. This very young, testostrum driven crowd actually quietly sat down and began to listen. Shooing those who continued to talk.  Pretty neat I thought! Hmmm he may be naïve, IK that is, but he surely can control an unruly excited bunch!
IK’s basic message of education is the key to your success made sense. His repeated message that change can only come if You exercise your right as a citizen naturally also made sense. No point accusing and abusing your corrupt political economic managers if you don’t actively participate in your politics. Tax evasion by elite and inequitable distribution of state funds also made sense. The use of stories, examples of the Prophet p.b.u.h were heavily used, and I’m sure also resonated with a lot of people in the Jalsa, but, made me a tad uncomfortable. We need to be able to convince our citizens that our moral ethical standards must be rooted in the present. Pakistan is a plural society and although IK has talked about tolerance, if religious idiom is used amongst a primarily uneducated (in religion too) folk- it can become the source and continued persecution of many Pakistanis.  The place for religion is private, in my opinion, and our polity must be blind when it comes to social legal justice in Pakistan. That is the only sound future for Pakistan. If our leaders don’t demonstrate leadership by advocating this how will be move forward?
 

Tuesday 8 May 2012

Article 63 (2)


May 6th 2012


Amidst the circus surrounding the conviction of our elected Prime Minister YRG, I am not completely sure if my non legal two cents has much value, especially when there is TMI (too much information) and perhaps intended to confuse?

But what has completely astounded me is the lack of ‘rational’ or ‘logical’ conclusions a seemingly straightforward Judgment has caused. Clearly when our esteemed Supreme Court convict’s an accused and refers to an Article while sentencing it is insufficient in Pakistan to come to a conclusive understanding of what has happened. Ha! Ha?

Challo,  nevertheless, it seems those who are hell bent on supporting a convicted member of Parliament  are now insisting that Article 63 part 2  provides the loophole ( necessary ?), allowing the Speaker of the Lower house of Parliament the space to ‘interpret the Supreme court’s Judgment’ .  Before we discuss this line of thinking, let’s review Article 63 (2):

 , ‘If any question arises whether a member of Majlis-e- Shoora  (Parliament) has become disqualified from being a member, the Speaker or, as the case maybe, the Chairman shall, within thirty days from raising of such question refer the question to the Chief Election Commissioner; ‘ .   

Or is it

Article 63(2)
If any question arises whether a member of Majlis-e-Shoora (Parliament) has become disqualified from being a member, the Speaker or, as the case may be, the Chairman shall, unless he decides that no such question has arisen, refer the question to the Election Commission within thirty days and should he fail to do so within the aforesaid period it shall be deemed to have been referred to the Election Commission.



As with so many arguments and discussions just getting the basic facts are confusing, in Pakistani style, I discovered two versions of article 63 (2). The first is in the widely available green book, published by  Zaka Ali  2012, ‘ The Constitution of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan (as amended by the constitution nineteenth amdt act 2010 act no 1 of 2011) ’ and   the second  version is available on the internet  at  www.Pakistan.org   ‘The Constitution of Pakistan’ ,  which  to my surprise and confusion had an additional sentence in  Article 63 (2) .

Even before I begin to contemplate the merits of my argument, I have had figure out which version is actually accurate; facts or fiction is completely subjective in Pakistan. Clearly in widely circulated published documents as well.

Moving on, and on a more productive and positive note, it is encouraging that this circus has initiated a widespread public discourse; more important, is for us to familiarize ourselves with our social contract. To exercise perspectives however informed or uninformed is a decent start for a active participatory civil society and a healthy society.

 BUT at the same time it is critical, that we acknowledge and also understand the basic principles of governance and what constitute the foundations of a democratic functional state.  We should understand how democratic states operate, for example, elections are certainly an important part of determining a mandate and legitimacy of elected members; but are not the only barometer or the mechanism of accountability through the process of democracy.  The Voice of the people Demos have many faces and there are checks and balances necessary to ensure justice, rule of law and coherence for all. There is no Exceptionalism. This is idea must be understood in Pakistan.

Exceptionalism is inherent in our culture and polity and is incongruent with blind justice for all and certainly has little space in the rule of law. Thus whether one is poor rich Muslim Christian, a Prime Minister, Punjabi or Sindhi there is no law which can make an exception in Judging according to the laws of the State. 

Similarly, the separation of powers between the Executive (manages governance), legislative (makes laws) and the Judiciary (interprets laws) must be understood.  The institutions which run and manage a state have been developed so they may function effectively in coherence with one another in there sphere of assignment.

 In this common understanding, now let’s look at what are the responsibilities of the Courts? As I understand it, the Supreme Court is exclusively responsible for 1) interpreting the law of the land and 2) the final judgment on/ any arising dispute or violation of laws. There is always a Court of Appeal determined by an alternative court to review decisions. Let’s not be naïve, there have been miscarriages of justice in the past, and there are processes and procedures to review these .We must exercise this right and NOT bypass them or undermine the institution which is authorized to handle these matters. 

Let’s look at the Article 63 (2) now; if we can agree the Supreme Court is responsible and is the technical agency which interprets the laws, how can the sentence ‘unless he decides that no such question has arisen (in version 2 of the Article 63 (2))   enable the Speaker/Chair in the Parliament to interpret matters of law?   Both the Chair and Speaker are legally  unqualified member(s) of the legislature and as a result cannot have the discretion to interpret Judgment(s) of the Supreme Court.  This line of thought is how I see a logical argument unfolding, but then I am also not legally qualified?

Those who may argue, that the Constitution has given this space to Parliament, I would suggest respectfully, first, this interpretation undermines the principles of  the separation of powers between the institutions that govern our state, and hence impinges on an area beyond the purview of the legislature. Secondly from the perspective of impartiality, how can a member of a political party provide an unbiased opinion of (her) Boss? Justice is blind isn’t it?  It is rational to conclude neither is the legislature suppose to be put in this situation by design or expected to be in  such a situation under any kind of scenario.

Emotional and irrational opinions on legal matters do not assist the process of democraticizing a polity.  Let’s take a breather and remind ourselves’ does this make sense?  In our endeavor to strengthen our weak democratic process we must FOCUS on strengthening and supporting the systems not protect political parties or specific individuals; institutions must be allowed to develop, evolve, and maintain the checks and balances between our institutions. No Exceptions.  Hence let the institution assigned to do their work function without muddling and confusing the matter through political lens. History is History let’s look at the present.

The accusation that ‘justice has not been served’ while the ‘law has been applied’ in this particular case of the Contempt of Court conviction requires a little analysis as well. How has democracy been undermined?  Convicting an elected Member of Parliament doesn’t undermine the process of law and order, or democratic governance. Rather it has strengthens it.  If our courts begin insuring our elite triumvirate, politicians, bureaucrats, and our armed forces are finally accountable to the electorates we may yet have some hope in becoming a law abiding civilized nation. The chronology of why are the politicians the first to be booked for their transgressions, well that is a good question, but also a childish and churlish one.

 Why you ask? Well the crimes of the politicians do not justify the crimes of the bureaucrats or the armed forces. They are all accountable and should be booked. One law for all. One justice for all. No exceptionalism.  And yes perhaps our politicians are the least ‘corrupt’ comparatively, but  it still does not justify undermining the legitimate imperative of the court to rule when a law is flouted  and in this specific case, a ‘contempt of court’ has been determined by inaction by the Executive and the Legislature.

It is important to support the Courts when they attempt to bring some order on those who have a heavy responsibility of leading the way by demonstrating that they will abide by the rules of engagement determined by our social contract- The Constitution. No Exceptionalism.

Sunday 6 May 2012

Rumour has it: Bahrain


Nilofer Qazi

January 24th 2012

When I am on holiday I wish Pakistan would not follow! After my sister’s recent wedding, I took a small break in Bahrain. What better place than Manama, the capital of this tiny island of 1, 21,705 souls, to do NOTHING.  It also happened to be Muharram.

Driving towards  Karanah , I  couldn’t help notice almost every public wall  and many  of the gated compounds  were covered in graffiti,  some of it hurriedly white washed by the government, I was told. Curious, a ‘Gulf’ city was art, protest and rebellion all on the walls- witty occasionally. 

 Surprised, the ‘uprising’ in Bahrain last year, we had briefly read and saw in the news, was still on going? 

Bahrain a Shia majority country ruled by the Kalifa ( Sunni)  family led by  King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa  seemed to be relatively popular, but like in the fairytales there seemed to be an evil uncle, , Kalifa ibn Salman al Khalifa who on the behest of their next door big brother was adamant on crushing-literally- a pro democracy movement .

Shia , Sunni  what is the difference?  Seriously  I thought in this day and age, fighting over what happened when?

The City State was a delightful cluster of village neighborhoods- distinct . Shia villages with colorful mosques vividly and elaborately decorated, while the Sunni villages simpler. I didn’t realize there was apartheid like  system of living . The upkeep of the Shia areas seemed well below the pristine manicured areas of the Sunni ruling elite.

 Bahrain has a soul though; with lovely lush habitation, old trees, homes, art galleries, and old buildings which have stood the test of time. The old  Dilmun Fort  along the turquoise shallow coastline alongside the horrible reclamation machines churning out water .

The souk  was covered, a maze of shops carrying modern ware, jewelry , shisha cafes and spice shops wafting wares invitingly. I loved the smell of fresh spices; Florescent coloured halva with jelly like consistency along side, mounds of cinnamon, dried lemon , zatar and a variety of chili powders. I enjoyed walking through the maze of alleys. In the heart of the souk, was the oldest ‘Imam bara’ . We wandered upon it, following the beautifully embroidered  black banners intricately woven in gold and red, the images of  the first 10 days of Karabala. I was fascinated by the beauty and powerful images.  The imam warmly invited us into the mosque.   A very clean ‘langar’ was prepared for the daily majlis. The imam told us that because of the multi cultural population in Bahrain  majlis was carried out in several languages; including Urdu and English; although since  the ‘trouble’  he elaborated hesitantly,  this year, foreign scholar annually invited were not.  I hadn’t realized, in a Shia Majority country, how insecure the majority population actually were. 

None of my ‘majority Muslim” pals in Bahrain had been to a Majlis, neither were they interested too. Why? A common history , a significant moment in our religious history and only 15% pay attention to it? Besides the practice of maatam and attend majlis what was the lesson of Karbala and Muharram?  That evening of Ahshur’ra , the feeling  of community  I witnessed  in the souk was incredible. Pageants, drums beating , children young and old carrying effigies, and banners representing the various neighbourhoods in Bahrain- altogether ; food was flowing, men and women were watching and participating in the ceremonies.   I had always assumed mourning, pain and violence was the hallmark of Ashur’ra,  As a Muslim I had been watching as an anthropologist not as a Muslim, Like in Bahrain,  I was mentally and historically ghettoized- culturally  sectarian. How little do we know of our vast and varied heritage?

Sympathizing with Bahrainis; I was unaware of Pakistan’s involvement in the saga of upheaval.  A large proportion of the Bahraini police force known as the ‘Bahrain national guard’ is recruited from Pakistan, both civilian and ex army personnel. Although the Pakistani recruits are primarily retired security personnel,  it is most unfortunate that a fledgling democracy like Pakistan  should turn a blind eye to the consequences of Pakistanis participating in squashing  pro democratic movements.  What was most disturbing  was the role of the Pakistani  in uniform brigade sent by big brother next door  last year, to assist the Bahraini royal family in crushing the demonstration.

 I wondered  if the people of Pakistan, had any clue about  the subcontracting of Pakistani  lives for  this dirty business- had this policy been debated in our most Revered Supreme people’s hall-Parliament?

 As a nation, haven’t we screamed our lungs out for 60 years!  About our Eastern big brother doing the same thing- how are the two freedoms different?

Three degrees of separation or are Pakistani involved in something -Everywhere?  Little had been reported about the hundreds if not thousands of Pakistani laborers’ who continue to live in fear, violence and constant threats by Bahraini protesters opposing the regime? Why were our hard working laborers getting the brunt of this angst?

Like a bad smell, something rotten was behind this.  In the ultimate wisdom of our unelected or perhaps elected, our men in uniform continue to assist, ‘brotherly nations’ in silly little matters of suppressing and killing their own. And why do we do this? I wonder how much we get paid for this.  Whatever the remuneration ‘package’, our poor citizens abroad, are paying for it.

In the coming weeks, on 14th February 2012, it is the anniversary of the Pearl roundabout crack down I hope there will  be no Pakistani hurt or hurting anyone in Bahrain.


The Hope of Pir Waris Shah


Nilofer Qazi

April 2012

Heer Ranjah the quintessential unrequited love story of our land. Driving to Waris Shah’s Mausoleum in Jandiala Sher Khan, Sheikhupura District, Pir sahib’s mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage, especially for those in love; apparently his own unrequited love for Bibi Bhag Bhari was the source of the myth of Heer.

The Waris Shah complex is surprisingly spotlessly clean, designed like a Moguls garden the centre piece the Mausoleum of Waris Shah a simple grave, alongside his father and brother.  Fountains on either side bridged the columned corridors on all four sides.  Blessedly there was no ‘ban’ on women entering the shrine! A library in the corner, a lovely surprise and welcome to all those interested in Punjabi poetry and 18th century history. Mureeds men and women in the outlier narrow columned courtyards bellowed Heer adding to the incredibly powerful vibrations already present. For the strangest and unexplainable reason I couldn’t stop circling the mausoleum round and round I went like a Dervish in a trance.

Sitting in this incredibly open, warm all embracing space, thinking about all the other folk stories we glorify: Mahaganj and Hamal in Baluchistan, Adam Khan and Khane in KPK, Mirza Sahe Baan, Suni Mahewal in Punjab, Sassi Pannu in Sindh and many more I’m unaware of, the contradictions we live with in this country are mind boggling.

On one hand we immortalize love stories of defiance, challenging traditional norms and glorify the human spirit and at the same time in these very towns and cities we are silent when women are buried alive, killed, maimed, honour killed when people dare to exercise a simple choice of their life partner. Schizophrenic. Hilarious if it wasn’t so violent.

 In Shaikhapur, Waris Shah’s shrine sits quietly celebrating love, music and life and within a few miles away we have our infamous, factory of hate, blood and thunder curdling away in Mureed Ke, the epicenter of hate for this poor nation and the rest of the world.

The recent public cases of the forced conversions of young Hindu girls are testament of our Schizophrenic state of mind, the courts looking the other way when basic constitutional rights of liberty and choice are flagrantly being violated. What is sad is the confusion surrounding these as well. Some of these young girls ‘chose to convert’ and some clearly did not. But why I ask did they have to choose? From what cultural, if not moral, source is our social political conscious functioning from. Which fountain of truth is guiding us? Is there a faith without love? What has faith got to do with love?

More optimistic friends argue that it is the Waris Shah’s of the world which ground Pakistanis to their roots. It is this force of love and all embracing tolerance which will eventually triumph over the narrow, imported, intolerant philosophy seeping into the fabric of Pakistani consciousness. As long as we sing and celebrate the stories of our land there is hope.   

aj aakhan waaris shah noo kito.n qabra.n vicho.n bol!
te aj kitab-e-ishq da koi agla varka phol!

ik roi si dhii punjab dii tuu likh-likh mare vain
aj lakkha.n dheeyan rondian tainuu.n waaris shah noon kahan

uth darmandan diaa dardiiaa uTh tak apna punjaab!
aj bele laashaa.n vichiiaa.n te lahu dii bharii chenaab!

kise ne panja paania.n vich dittii zahir rala!
te unhaa.n paaniaa.n dharat nuu.n dittaa paanii laa!

jitthe vajdii phuuk pyaar di ve oh vanjhli gayi guaach
ranjhe de sab veer aj bhul gaye usdi jaach

dharti te lahu vasiya, qabran payiyan choN
preet diyan shaahazaadiiaa.n aj vich mazaaraa.n roN

aj sab ‘qaido’ ban gaye, husn ishq de chor
aj kitho.n liaaiie labbh ke waaris shah ik hor

aj aakhan waaris shah noon kito.n qabra.n vicho.n bol!
te aj kitab-e-ishq da koi agla varka phol

( Aj Aakhan Waris Shah Nu is a Punjabi song/kalam writen by Amrita Pritam).

Translation

I say to Waris Shah today, speak from your grave
And add a new page to your book of love

Once one daughter of Punjab wept, and you wrote your long saga;
Today thousands weep, calling to you Waris Shah:

Arise, o friend of the afflicted; arise and see the state of Punjab,
Corpses strewn on fields, and the Chenaab flowing with much blood.

Someone filled the five rivers with poison,
And this same water now irrigates our soil.

Where was lost the flute, where the songs of love sounded?
And all Ranjha’s brothers forgotten to play the flute.

Blood has rained on the soil, graves are oozing with blood,
The princesses of love cry their hearts out in the graveyards.

Today all the Quaido’ns have become the thieves of love and beauty,
Where can we find another one like Waris Shah?

Waris Shah! I say to you, speak from your grave
And add a new page to your book of love.


Rumour has it: Karachi Literature Festival 2012


Nilofer Qazi

February 2012

My first literature festival in Pakistan! The Karachi literature festival KLF was as promised, a wonderful space where writers, readers and fans all mingled basking in literary overdose. The atmosphere at the Carlton hotel at the edge of phase 8 in defense created the bubble away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Pakistani authors, poets and dramatists young and old alongside international iconic literary figures chatted and hung out.

William Darlymple’s upcoming book on the first Afghan War in the 19th century will prove the powers that be have learnt little from history.  He read excerpts from letters and diaries of British officers and soldiers’ serving in Afghanistan- accounts startlingly familiar. Always self effacing Mohammad Hanif was such a pleasure to hear; candidly sharing the motivations of writing he captivated the audience. In response to a question regarding any threats after his bestselling  novel ‘exploding mangoes ‘was published, he wryly  shared  Ijaz ul Haq message to him ,’ daikh ta hun tum kaisa likh tai agar mera baap zinda hota’. Hanif’s cynical posture was dotted with unintended humour which had the audience in laughter. Hanif has the ability to bring out the uncomfortable in jest.

A conversation with Fehmida Riaz’s was moving and a reminder of many historical fallacies we continue to foster and harbor. Undoubtedly one of the grandest Urdu poetesses she reminds us that Urdu was a Hindutani language, becoming a Muslim language was accidental and perhaps unfortunate- since it isn’t. The audience was quite visibly disturbed at this idea. Eternally affable, in her soft style she left many thinking- for the first time it seemed!  If we are to promote languages in Pakistan she suggested we should emphasize all, the fact of the matter is that Urdu however unfortunate for many, is not representative of the realities of many Pakistanis.

There were eight  current affairs sessions which looked at Afghanistan, Bangladesh and the military, the nuclear program in Pakistan ; Although a little incongruent in the spirit and milieu of literary circles, apparently necessary to attract crowds?!  Upon reflection, the organizers of KLF would agree the highest attendance were at the most entertaining topics. This year I would guesstimate 2000 attended KLF 2012.

Saad Haroon of Black Fish and Ali Mustafa of begharat Brigade stole the show; the wit and ability to state the obvious ironically was priceless. We look forward to their new lyrics! Although difficult to top  Allo Anda they promise a ‘sophisticated criticism’ of ‘many holly cows!

Two sessions on the media, one with foreign representatives discussing their coverage of Pakistan, the other with a set of Pakistani electronic  anchor personalities was very interesting. The contrast between the two sessions was a painful reminder of the qualitative differences between the two. The former were conscious and humbly responsive to many criticism of bias and ‘tilt’ of the international coverage on Pakistan explaining various compulsions and priorities set by events. The later on the other hand were defensive and completely oblivious to the importance of ‘public opinion’ which emphatically suggested  anchors should not give their opinions while moderating. One anchor even went so far as to argue how could they just sit and not give their opinion! A long way to go Pakistani media! What was revealing was the discussion on ‘television ratings’. The multi nationals and marketing companies determine what the ratings are; the measurement of those rating ‘eye balls’ are across cities in Pakistan excluding Baluchistan because  commercial interest of mnc don’t extend there. The entire media  follows a system which isn’t looking at maximizing the number of citizens in Pakistan that watch any given program but what multi nationals perceive to be target audiences!

There were many sessions I regrettably missed, the diverse choice made it impossible to attend all. Amongst those were, Ayesha Jalal’s  Oxford Companion to Pakistani History’ and all the sessions with Hanif Kureshi the famed British Pakistan author of ‘The Buddha of Suburbia’. A rare treat at the end of day 1 was a mushaira with renowned  poets, which  I couldn’t  hear on account of a 2 hour delay. Missing the finale  rock concert by  Salman Ahmed with two Qawals and an upcoming rockstar was also regrettable.

An observation about the KLF, although incredibly enjoyable and a necessary cultural event, it was completely donor funded. In the commercial capital of our country not one single local benefactor or sponsor (baring Tapal tea) was part of this event. This could be for a number of ( all unacceptable) reasons, the donors ever so ready to support such ‘cultural events’ and the organizing committee’s inability to plan or put together a team to ensure this is a PAKISTANI hosted event. A little surprising and most disturbing was the nonchalant attitude by many Pakistanis when this folly was pointed out. We’ve become so dependent on donors, its ‘expected’ that they’ll sponsor our cultural events, our musical events, our education systems, our health systems and pretty much everything we are willing or unwilling to hand over .

Nevertheless the Karachi literary festival was lovely! But the Islamabad literary festival will be even better- I promises!

London Calling

Nilofer Qazi
April  11th 2012
I love London. It’s that simple. No matter where I go in the world and God has been kind, I have lived and visited many places, London evokes a familiarity and a smile which no other city does-except home of course.
On this trip I was very keen to see the Hajj exhibition at the British Museum. Interesting and disappointing I would say. Interesting for those who have no cultural exposure to the hajj thus the basic rituals are explained in a short documentary, the Haram Sharif is shown in  various models and  its extensions over the decades by the Guardians of the two Mosques. The beautifully embroidered covers of the Door of the Ka’aba are also displayed. Traditionally woven in Egypt now manufactured in Mecca very elaborate indeed and in gold!  Interesting for South Asians as well, the Begum of Bhopal’s visit to Mecca at the turn of the 20th century is also pictorially displayed with her entourage; her letter to the Mayor of Mecca regarding the pilgrims inadequate care is also shown; I found this quite amusing, the Saudis who aren’t renowned for respecting women, actually held a state dinner for the Begum. Says a lot about power- always trumps?  Subsequently, the Begum established a trust for all her subjects to be taken care of appropriately. The exhibition is disappointing for some of us who were expecting a little more, perhaps the meaning of Hajj rather than the mechanics and historical travel routes of famed pilgrims which dominate the exhibition. Nevertheless it is a first of its kind and I look forward more exhibitions exploring the spirit of our faith.

To more fun shin nan nigins what is London without its tea! I never cease to enjoy high tea at Brown’s hotel, the oldest hotel in London on Albemarle street, frequented by Alexander Bell, Agatha Christi, Rudyard Kipling and many more who also enjoyed their fabulous high tea. On this trip I managed to grab one play at The West End, One Man and Two Governors, at the Haymarket Royal theatre, a gorgeous small theatre off Piccadilly; a comedy by Carlo Goldoni which had all of us in fits of laughter. The interactive and impromptu dialogue of Owain Arthur the main protagonist was hilarious. The theatre culture is so alive and present all over the city; the street musician, artists, at Piccadilly, Leicester square, and Covent Garden playing everywhere 24/7. It is such a pleasure to see people outside at night singing dancing performing. The City’s soul alive!
My love of food usually means exploring new restaurants; but first, all the old haunts have to be visited. I love Dim Sum which unfortunately I cannot get at home, so ritually, I indulge when in London. Traditionally many traipse to China Town for all you can eat Dim Sum, but I have become a fan of Ping Pong a little more fusion amalgamation of South East Asian variety of steamed dumplings. To top this sumptuous meal, and just across, to Selfridge’s food court are probably the best Red velvet cupcakes in the world- at Lola’s counter.  

I was lucky with the weather and enjoyed walking in Hyde Park; London is a small big town, where you can walk through so many parks, and enjoy a truly neighborhood culture, unique today in large metropolises. Unfortunately it seemed that the number of bookshops had seriously diminished since my last trip. The ones that had remained had also shrunk in size. The kindle culture or the internet generation seemed to have an effect on bookshops. Sad.
The presence of Arabs and South Asians always evident as well; I was part of the majority in central London- it seemed. Eateries on Edgeware road open all night long South Asian /Arab style; Shawarma at Marouf of course is must as well; I wish the Syrian version of the paper thin wraps would one day replace the pita bread. One can hope!  Unlike in other European cities there isn’t a service or cuisine we enjoy at home, that isn’t available on the streets of London.

Rush hour in London truly reminds us of the privilege of living in Pakistan-for some of us at least.  In spite of the millions of pounds invested annually in the London transport sector, every year I feel the underground ‘tube’ is dirtier and quite unpleasant. I recall aday pass costing 2.20pound sterling now it is close to 7 pound sterling. The quality and hygiene have seriously plummeted as well! Further, it has horrendous services for the disabled or luggage lugging folks like yours truly; traveling has become a little harrowing.
The upcoming Olympics will truly test the city’s capacity to manage millions moving from one point to another on time!  Nevertheless, London is always a pleasure to visit but it also reminds us of the myriads of privileges’ many of us enjoy at home. Alhamduillah.

National interest- For Whom?

Nilofer Qazi
April 2012

I listened to a young army man recounting his experiences of Siachen with sadness. Describing the grueling conditions in which our soldiers both officers and sepoys endure both mental and physical pain, for what, some would ask?  Naively and so earnestly he replied, I don’t know? A natural question we do ponder, in the isolation, in our bunkers, all huddled up together battling going stark crazy through endless silent white nights. But our seniors, who know better, must have a reason for us to be here, it is not for me to question, I am a simple soldier and will do as I am ordered.  This blind faith in those who should know better, is heartbreaking. Do we know better? Who knows better? How do we calculate better?  Also,  admitting a little resentment felt by the soldiers serving at 22000 feet conditions, while their officers  live comfortably in cities, as some very young soldiers’ die unnecessarily of high altitude sickness.
Amidst, this insanity, and baffling war, there are heartwarming stories of shared humanity amongst deemed ‘enemies’.  Posts meters away from one another stories of comradeships on national days, holidays, between soldiers caught up in similar conditions make us civilians wonder, to what heights are we willing to waste precious lives and for what? But then again who are making these decisions I ask?

In 1992 as young intern with AKRSP in Skardu, a young pilot’s wife taught me how to make Gulab Jamans; occasionally when I did meet her husband between his flights to and from the various ‘Siachen’ bases, I learned the mere financial cost of a single roti for each soldier was Rs 500. Sadly in the summer of 1992 that pilot was shot down by ‘enemy fire” while delivering supplies to our troops.
Silly  and overly zealous nationalists try to justify the unjustifiable; they argue do you want to leave your front door unguarded however expensive it maybe? What idiocy? I remember my neighbourhood not too many moons ago, where there were no guards or even locks on the door. Having a safe neighbourhood is not inconceivable, however improbable it sounds today. If we are to dream then at least dream peace!  Living in fear has become a strategic business plan for some in Pakistan. We do need an alternative business plan!

Blind faith or what? Incredulous were the stories of our soldiers who continue to consider it an honour to serve in this nonexistent battlefield. The heights to which mad nationalism will travel too and for what, and whom? Does anyone take a moment to ponder the basics?  Soldiers admit the ‘battle’ doesn’t exist up there, only against the wrath of god manifest in excruciating inhumane conditions testing the mind body and soul-only. Let alone the cost to our exchequer some estimate $5 million a month, which we cannot afford.
It has taken 135 souls to perish for a national debate to emerge-there is no strategic value when it kills with impunity.  Let’s not forget the hundreds unaccounted for who have also died before the 135 souls who most recently perished. This nation has to begin to value every human life and develop plans and strategies in accordance with safeguarding every individual citizen, yes individual, not institutional or some imagined communal, rights.

Reassuring, the Prime Minister saw fit to convene a DCC to reflect on the ‘Siachen’ policy. Nawaz Sharif’s statement on the other hand, thankfully and clearly outlines what should have been in our ‘national interest’ -withdraw unilaterally and privilege the lives of your citizens first! I am so not interested if Indians privilege their soldiers lives or not. I care if we do. What are our national interest, when it maims physically mentally and financially your nation?
Follow the money as someone wise once said. Who benefits from this unholy venture? What kind of bravado is being demonstrated by this fruitless disagreement? If the will to resolve this disagreement over an imaginary line is paramount, then the powers that be will find a mutually agreeable solution- But then the paramount value of a Pakistani soul Must drive that process.

We all knew the Nato supplies were going to be reopened the day they were closed, why?  Because vested interests and enough pressure would ensure this, then I say -We Are also not expendable. Not one soldier or civilian in support of this misplaced adventure.  Make it happen. No excuses.
Listening to the brave young man in uniform I didn’t know how to respond to his ‘commitment’ to serve unconditionally, when his nation in return has little commitment in serving him.

Rumour has it: Baluchistan is Mine!

Nilofer Qazi
March 2012

I had little interest in adding my two bits to the recent interest and discussion on Baluchistan, but listening to Bramdagh Bugti on television made me livid! I am a citizen of Pakistan, not so proud these days, but nevertheless. My forefathers settled in Baluchistan and my grandmother known as ‘Mummy’ to All, in her home town-Pishin, would turn in her grave at the state of affairs in her beloved home.
Baluchistan represents the failure of Pakistan.  It represents the greed and refusal to be just and provide good governance to its citizens. I hated what Baramdagh Bugti said but I loathe even more the reality that made him say what he said. He can be ‘fixed’ or ‘disappeared’ as is fashionable these days who speak uncomfortable truths.

When the Baloch raise their voices against the false guardians of Pakistan they do it on behalf of all the exploited and the oppressed in Pakistan. It is ironic that the Baloch nationalists are actually the most Pakistani of nationalists. Hilarious!
As for the Sardars of the Baloch they are like the Khans, the Maliks, the Chaudhrys, the Waderas  all over Pakistan  add to those are the ‘new’ elites, the military, the religious and the urban bosses. Members of elites, naturally party, hate and kill each other but what they commonly share is exploit the poor and the weak. In this situation to expect the majority of the Baloch population to revolt against Baramdagh and his ilk is asking them to join a ‘plan of action’ devised by outsiders against them. The Baloch are poor and illiterate but they are not stupid.

What gives Baramdagh Bugti the right to decide on behalf of a minority elite in Baluchistan to declare that the majority of Baluchistan wants independence?  On what basis does he assert this? Has there been a referendum on this issue? Who does he represent?
Baluchistan is the largest province of Pakistan; in the absence of an updated census (since 1998), the population is majority Pathan with many other ethnic groups including Brohi,  Makrani besides the Baluch.  Baluchistan belongs to all of us. We are all Baloch.

The state of Pakistan, under ZAB, over threw a democratically elected NAP government in the 1970s and sent in the army too crush its own population who were demanding equal rights and a share in the natural resources they provide the nation! This is a fact. A criminal reality no one can deny.
The continued army operations in Baluchistan fuels this discontent and  protects those who would take advantage of a bad situation. The extra judicial murder of Sardar Akbar Bugti only strengthened the idea of  the perpetual persecution of the Baloch.  Where rights, development, strengthening  governance should be our focus, idiotic archaic divisive ideas are gaining ground. We have allowed this to happen. No one else is to blame.  What have our craven elites chosen to do? Vent their feeble anger at a moron called Rohrabacker in the USA rather than address the national challenge that injustice and exploitation results. Tragically it looks like our current ‘elites’ are completely unfit to address this challenge. We  lost Bangladesh and blamed India. We are gaping at Baluchistan and blaming America?!

What is criminal negligence on our state’s part is that we understand the occupation of Afghanistan has fueled and strengthened the regressive Taliban and cannot understand what our unaccountable army can fester in our own province?!  No modern sane state should allow its army to manage the governance of its largest province.  Certainly not while we are pretending to be democratic!  No less an army which has lost everything it starts. The inability of the state to exercise its writ in law, governance, and development is a reflection of absolute political failure and has to be rectified immediately. If we are to be a democratic polity one cannot just talk, or ask for forgiveness or make sweeping statements of reparations, actions speak louder than words. The Baluchistan package announced so proudly by this government not only was pathetically patronizing but has altered none of the fundamental grievances of the entire population of the province.
The first step would be to remove the army from the province immediately. Initiate a census in the province to determine the profile and opinion(s) of your citizens there. Commit to develop the province which has the potential to carry the rest of the nation into the next century independent from donors and foreign reliance.

Baluchistan is not alone in the dismal treatment it has received from the state of Pakistan. To have areas which are not under the writ of the state such as FATA FANA makes a mockery of the notion of a modern state. We cannot argue in the community of nations to be treated as a sovereign responsible modern country when we have little sovereignty over our own. Our governing elites are mere servants who only know how to lord it over those who are fewer and weaker than themselves. As a result we have no good answer to Baramdagh barb : the Baloch do not care to be servants of servants.

Rumour has it: Good Morning Vietnam

Nilofer QaziJanuary 15  2012

Good morning Vietnam! Makes you smile nostalgically doesn’t it? Recently, I traveled with some friends through Vietnam, I didn’t really know what to expect,  a welcome get away from the constant emotional roller coaster of living in Pakistan at the most.  I was looking forward to the exquisite cuisine, misty mountains, endless rice paddies and the ethereal water mountains of Ho long bay – a UNESCO heritage site, the famous art galleries and Yes!  Of course, and to see some of the interesting war memorabilia of the 1960/70s.  What I didn’t expect was to reflect on what is going on in Pakistan, my beloved Pakistan, as well. 
Pakistan’s current turmoil , almost a rerun of a bad  and familiar black and white movie, ,a bully  having learnt little from his past, continues unthinkingly and repeatedly  thrashing the little guy, constantly  humiliating  the meek, seemingly helpless, while  the meek, assuming sympathy with the ‘viewer’  seeks  moral  righteousness and  hopes for eventual triumph- in the end!  What is seemingly a straightforward simple typical story subtly suggestively tells another tale. Who is actually meek? And who is actually the bully? Is it always so simple?

I thought about the young guide, Lin,  who showed us through the chu chu tunnels ,a maze of hundreds of kilometers of underground tunnels in which the Vietnamese resistance movement lived, prepared trained, and attacked the’ evil imperialists’.  Lin, having learned I was Pakistani, immediately, and very sympathetically said if Osma bin Ladin had been in Vietnam he would never have been found in those tunnels? I was so shocked at her assumption that as a Pakistani OBL had been welcomed and protected willingly by the people of Pakistan?  I wondered what could OBL possibly mean to a young Vietnamese?  A little embarrassed, I was even more bewildered that Lin, a self confessed non violent Buddhist, empathized with one of the world’s most wanted terrorist?  Why?
I wondered if she had seen one of the many  u-tube  Taliban videos? Had the ‘propaganda videos of the Taliban or Al Qaida’ remind her of messages she had grown up with?  The ‘propaganda’ movie we saw in the heartland of the Vietcong  jungle, had also showed the  ‘evils of the imperialists’ and  how the ‘civilian puppet leaders were only focused  on serving the needs of the imperialists, looting and plundering at the expense of the starving Vietnamese people’, in contrast, a nationalist was  one who ‘took up arms against such puppets’;  further,  emotive  images of  victims of the thousands of  B=52 bombs thrown on Vietnam were also shown-mercilessly  killing maiming and obliterating fields and forests which fed the agricultural dependent  nation;  The only meaning of freedom was  to ‘fight with a bayonet  in one hand, and a plow in the other’ . What struck me were the images of Vietnamese women carrying babies in one hand and a rifle in the other.

The idea to resist violence and oppression is natural, and as a Pakistani I wondered how could I relate and sympathize with the Vietcong and yet have only revulsion for  ‘our’ ‘freedom fighters at home’?   Who are my freedom fighters and defenders? What a disturbing thought.
In contrast, in Lin’s national experience all of Vietnam participated in there freedom struggle.  In  Pakistan, the defenders of our land, make one cringe.  Can I compare the moral, physical or intellectual courage of those young and old ,poor and rich Vietnamese focused on one idea - freedom from foreign control?

What moves  people into action? It cannot only be the ‘level of oppression’ in a country or  degree of  poverty, we see many countries in our neighbourhood who voice and move towards fundamental social change. Not in Pakistan .  It would  also be inaccurate to suggest that communism alone spurred revolutionary fervor in Vietnam, since little is understood of the large non communist and simply a-political support  behind the resistance movement in Vietnam.  I heard little sympathy for communism in Vietnam although Ho Chi Min was revered as the ‘father to all Vietnamese’.
I wondered if our black and white movie would end similarly or not.

Who feeds my people’s intellectual soul? Who leads them into resistance or defensive  battle? Why can’t I relate to our freedom fighters? I am not evil and also not part of the ‘imperialists’ puppetry.  Something is fundamentally absent in my society. It is so difficult to say, in a country of 180 million souls there is little evidence of true indigenous social movements, other than the urban religious based political movement, that too, I do not feel is a reflection of the social conscious of Pakistan, so culturally complex are we as a people, it is almost impossible to define Pakistanis exclusively on religion alone. Neither am I referring to the hollow ‘political’ parties  we currently have, who are  bereft of any clear, grounded, ideological foundations which ‘galvanize citizens’. Barring perhaps one political party in the Frontier, none of the current crop of political parties have a history or any experience of civil political resistance. What sacrifices have our leaders experienced as political activists, self sacrificing, completely, which essentially includes morally becons and pillars of society or truly know their peoples pain?  Do they actually have a modicum of experience of the national social reality? Somehow the vision of the current Pakistani establishment in the Chu Chu tunnels makes me laugh.
The elite by definition are not  necessarily the ‘problem’, rather history has shown us, as Ho Chi Min did, the elite usually spur and lead social movements.  But I don’t see any movement in this direction in Pakistan? Our ‘freedom fighters’ not only fight and resist the ‘imperialists’, but also terrorize and kill their own.

Perhaps most poigently I tried to comprehend a nation, and a people who can forgive. The violence and pain Vietnam experienced is difficult to comprehend, certainly for those of us who only know the war from the movies and books ; and I hope no one has the misfortune of experiencing it; nevertheless, the presence of so many of the ‘imperialists’ in Hanoi and ho Chi Min City as permanent residents, and as investors was incredible- in peace and harmony with Vietnamese society.  The tourist industry, for example, has adopted the entire paraphenalia, recreating the atmosphere of the infamous army camps, and everything associated with the GI JOE- jeeps, camouflage gear, including the very familiar Zippo lighter. I wondered how did the Vietnamese not hate those symbols and reminders of such horror. Then I thought of Lin, a vegetarian non violent Buddhist, showing us around the jungle of war empathizing with OBLs.

Rumour Has it: Humanism Pak--istani Style

Nilofer Qazi
April 2012

Saroop Ijaz’s recent article on why speak on the Ahmadies   has been nagging at my conscious, Anatol Lieven’s talk on his book ‘Pakistan a Hard Country’ was also revealing. Saroop appealed to Pakistanis’ ethical values, and questioned how we discriminate or condone violence when we know rationally it is wrong to discriminate  any Pakistani citizen on the basis of faith.  Does one really require a text, or sayings of historical honoured men to comprehend what is wrong and what isn’t? Discrimination in Islam or any other law is unacceptable, you do not require a mujtahid  or a lecture in human rights to understand this. Silence and fear of reprisals cannot justify selective ‘causes’ by those of us who want Pakistan to be a modern rational Just society. The banning of Shezan a Pakistani  iconic company by third class retrograde minded member(s) of the Punjab bar association  is another case in point. A bar association! A platform whose raison d’être is to protect the citizens of this country from injustice! Who cares who owns Shezan,  are they not Pakistani? Before banning Shezan I wonder if these retrogrades thought about their families who have enjoyed Shezan all these decades.  
Anatol also suggests Pakistani ethics or cultural ethos has ‘accepted’ a moral order which justifies and accepts levels of immorality and corruption which many in the West would fail to understand. He diplomatically suggests the system of ‘kinship’ has its own rationality and  has some distributor effect but  ‘not for all’ as in modern states. Do we really believe some human being are worthy of value and other are not? Clearly some in Pakistan do. And those of us in government and outside of government have to assert loudly this is not  the case. If we don’t it is!

What struck me was Anatol’s observation that murders and killings in one part of Karachi rarely affect the behavior of folks in other parts, and certainly does not become a national issue, nor result in government accountability. This ‘uncaring’ or ‘level of acceptable violence’ is a reflection of the, lack of  humanity in our society and polity.
How have we arrived at this juncture? It would be easy to believe that poverty, and perhaps radical brainwashing in our systems of (lack of) education has resulted in this immoral unethical world we’ve come to accept. BUT, we all know the world we live in does not support this silly observation, the ‘educated’  and not so poor are perhaps the most inhuman and immoral . Where has this lack of ethics emerged from or culminated into? The definition of Ethics means the moral principles held by a person or a group’s behavior. If the ‘group’  our society  accepts’ murder, corruption, discrimination then that is our ethics and morality however we justify it . The argument that  the ‘disempowered’ the poor and the progressives remain silent out of fear is also a reflection of our culture and ethical values.

Another  case in point is the recent consensus that seems to have emerged inside Pakistan and in the power capitals, ‘let’s talk to the Taliban’ . This strategy is also a reflection of a value system bereft of principles and human regard. The murdering thugs once the scourges  of modern civilization are now possible allies or solutions for a new independent Afghanistan and peace ‘insurers of Pakistan’?  Memory is short, what are the values that the Taliban will abide by and impose on the people of Afghanistan and also export to their neighbours? It is convenient for the Americans and it’s allay to exist from Afghanistan now, as any illegal occupying force should, but this does not hide their failed promises to ‘rebuild Afghanistan into a modern state’ with the billions if not trillions spent. The current negotiations and compromises are being justified as a win win scenario, the Afghans want us out, the Pakistanis want us out and we want out. TRUE. But at what cost? What values does this reflect?
Looking closer at home, Baluchistan is 40% of ‘ the land of the pure’, its minuscule population is disproportionately poor, disconnected from US and yet, instead of looking at the quality of life of 17 million citizens our society and political mind set continues to justify and accepts the state of affairs in Baluchistan.  A society which justifies oppression and is uncaring of its citizens on grounds of ‘politics’, is not a polity for the people by the people.

It is important both for Pakistanis and certainly those in the west with more power, to reflect on the ethical values they purport and what policies they pursue in light of those standards.  Real politick again is hardly a justification is it? Governments and societies must be accountable if we want to live in a world  which believes life and liberty are universal values. These universal principles may sound idealistic and banal but it is time for those of us of faith or not to shape our actions accordingly.
Just look at Aung San Suu Kyi of Burma.

Until a new moral ethical movement emerges, which does not accept the current framework (s) of engagement- no amount of new political parties or leaders will change the reality of Pakistan.  As Muslims and non Muslims let’s begin with being honest-with ourselves.