London Calling

Nilofer Qazi

April  11^th 2012

I love London. It’s that simple. No matter where I go in the world and God has been kind, I have lived and visited many places, London evokes a familiarity and a smile which no other city does-except home of course.

On this trip I was very keen to see the Hajj exhibition at the British Museum. Interesting and disappointing I would say. Interesting for those who have no cultural exposure to the hajj thus the basic rituals are explained in a short documentary, the Haram Sharif is shown in  various models and  its extensions over the decades by the Guardians of the two Mosques. The beautifully embroidered covers of the Door of the Ka’aba are also displayed. Traditionally woven in Egypt now manufactured in Mecca very elaborate indeed and in gold!  Interesting for South Asians as well, the Begum of Bhopal’s visit to Mecca at the turn of the 20^th century is also pictorially displayed with her entourage; her letter to the Mayor of Mecca regarding the pilgrims inadequate care is also shown; I found this quite amusing, the Saudis who aren’t renowned for respecting women, actually held a state dinner for the Begum. Says a lot about power- always trumps?  Subsequently, the Begum established a trust for all her subjects to be taken care of appropriately. The exhibition is disappointing for some of us who were expecting a little more, perhaps the meaning of Hajj rather than the mechanics and historical travel routes of famed pilgrims which dominate the exhibition. Nevertheless it is a first of its kind and I look forward more exhibitions exploring the spirit of our faith.

To more fun shin nan nigins what is London without its tea! I never cease to enjoy high tea at Brown’s hotel, the oldest hotel in London on Albemarle street, frequented by Alexander Bell, Agatha Christi, Rudyard Kipling and many more who also enjoyed their fabulous high tea. On this trip I managed to grab one play at The West End, One Man and Two Governors, at the Haymarket Royal theatre, a gorgeous small theatre off Piccadilly; a comedy by Carlo Goldoni which had all of us in fits of laughter. The interactive and impromptu dialogue of Owain Arthur the main protagonist was hilarious. The theatre culture is so alive and present all over the city; the street musician, artists, at Piccadilly, Leicester square, and Covent Garden playing everywhere 24/7. It is such a pleasure to see people outside at night singing dancing performing. The City’s soul alive!

My love of food usually means exploring new restaurants; but first, all the old haunts have to be visited. I love Dim Sum which unfortunately I cannot get at home, so ritually, I indulge when in London. Traditionally many traipse to China Town for all you can eat Dim Sum, but I have become a fan of Ping Pong a little more fusion amalgamation of South East Asian variety of steamed dumplings. To top this sumptuous meal, and just across, to Selfridge’s food court are probably the best Red velvet cupcakes in the world- at Lola’s counter.  

I was lucky with the weather and enjoyed walking in Hyde Park; London is a small big town, where you can walk through so many parks, and enjoy a truly neighborhood culture, unique today in large metropolises. Unfortunately it seemed that the number of bookshops had seriously diminished since my last trip. The ones that had remained had also shrunk in size. The kindle culture or the internet generation seemed to have an effect on bookshops. Sad.

The presence of Arabs and South Asians always evident as well; I was part of the majority in central London- it seemed. Eateries on Edgeware road open all night long South Asian /Arab style; Shawarma at Marouf of course is must as well; I wish the Syrian version of the paper thin wraps would one day replace the pita bread. One can hope!  Unlike in other European cities there isn’t a service or cuisine we enjoy at home, that isn’t available on the streets of London.

Rush hour in London truly reminds us of the privilege of living in Pakistan-for some of us at least.  In spite of the millions of pounds invested annually in the London transport sector, every year I feel the underground ‘tube’ is dirtier and quite unpleasant. I recall aday pass costing 2.20pound sterling now it is close to 7 pound sterling. The quality and hygiene have seriously plummeted as well! Further, it has horrendous services for the disabled or luggage lugging folks like yours truly; traveling has become a little harrowing.

The upcoming Olympics will truly test the city’s capacity to manage millions moving from one point to another on time!  Nevertheless, London is always a pleasure to visit but it also reminds us of the myriads of privileges’ many of us enjoy at home. Alhamduillah.