Rumour has it: Bahrain

Nilofer Qazi

January 24th 2012

When I am on holiday I wish Pakistan would not follow! After my sister’s recent wedding, I took a small break in Bahrain. What better place than Manama, the capital of this tiny island of 1, 21,705 souls, to do NOTHING.  It also happened to be Muharram.

Driving towards  Karanah , I  couldn’t help notice almost every public wall  and many  of the gated compounds  were covered in graffiti,  some of it hurriedly white washed by the government, I was told. Curious, a ‘Gulf’ city was art, protest and rebellion all on the walls- witty occasionally. 

 Surprised, the ‘uprising’ in Bahrain last year, we had briefly read and saw in the news, was still on going? 

Bahrain a Shia majority country ruled by the Kalifa ( Sunni)  family led by  King Hamad bin Isa Al Khalifa  seemed to be relatively popular, but like in the fairytales there seemed to be an evil uncle, , Kalifa ibn Salman al Khalifa who on the behest of their next door big brother was adamant on crushing-literally- a pro democracy movement .

Shia , Sunni  what is the difference?  Seriously  I thought in this day and age, fighting over what happened when?

The City State was a delightful cluster of village neighborhoods- distinct . Shia villages with colorful mosques vividly and elaborately decorated, while the Sunni villages simpler. I didn’t realize there was apartheid like  system of living . The upkeep of the Shia areas seemed well below the pristine manicured areas of the Sunni ruling elite.

 Bahrain has a soul though; with lovely lush habitation, old trees, homes, art galleries, and old buildings which have stood the test of time. The old  Dilmun Fort  along the turquoise shallow coastline alongside the horrible reclamation machines churning out water .

The souk  was covered, a maze of shops carrying modern ware, jewelry , shisha cafes and spice shops wafting wares invitingly. I loved the smell of fresh spices; Florescent coloured halva with jelly like consistency along side, mounds of cinnamon, dried lemon , zatar and a variety of chili powders. I enjoyed walking through the maze of alleys. In the heart of the souk, was the oldest ‘Imam bara’ . We wandered upon it, following the beautifully embroidered  black banners intricately woven in gold and red, the images of  the first 10 days of Karabala. I was fascinated by the beauty and powerful images.  The imam warmly invited us into the mosque.   A very clean ‘langar’ was prepared for the daily majlis. The imam told us that because of the multi cultural population in Bahrain  majlis was carried out in several languages; including Urdu and English; although since  the ‘trouble’  he elaborated hesitantly,  this year, foreign scholar annually invited were not.  I hadn’t realized, in a Shia Majority country, how insecure the majority population actually were. 

None of my ‘majority Muslim” pals in Bahrain had been to a Majlis, neither were they interested too. Why? A common history , a significant moment in our religious history and only 15% pay attention to it? Besides the practice of maatam and attend majlis what was the lesson of Karbala and Muharram?  That evening of Ahshur’ra , the feeling  of community  I witnessed  in the souk was incredible. Pageants, drums beating , children young and old carrying effigies, and banners representing the various neighbourhoods in Bahrain- altogether ; food was flowing, men and women were watching and participating in the ceremonies.   I had always assumed mourning, pain and violence was the hallmark of Ashur’ra,  As a Muslim I had been watching as an anthropologist not as a Muslim, Like in Bahrain,  I was mentally and historically ghettoized- culturally  sectarian. How little do we know of our vast and varied heritage?

Sympathizing with Bahrainis; I was unaware of Pakistan’s involvement in the saga of upheaval.  A large proportion of the Bahraini police force known as the ‘Bahrain national guard’ is recruited from Pakistan, both civilian and ex army personnel. Although the Pakistani recruits are primarily retired security personnel,  it is most unfortunate that a fledgling democracy like Pakistan  should turn a blind eye to the consequences of Pakistanis participating in squashing  pro democratic movements.  What was most disturbing  was the role of the Pakistani  in uniform brigade sent by big brother next door  last year, to assist the Bahraini royal family in crushing the demonstration.

 I wondered  if the people of Pakistan, had any clue about  the subcontracting of Pakistani  lives for  this dirty business- had this policy been debated in our most Revered Supreme people’s hall-Parliament?

 As a nation, haven’t we screamed our lungs out for 60 years!  About our Eastern big brother doing the same thing- how are the two freedoms different?

Three degrees of separation or are Pakistani involved in something -Everywhere?  Little had been reported about the hundreds if not thousands of Pakistani laborers’ who continue to live in fear, violence and constant threats by Bahraini protesters opposing the regime? Why were our hard working laborers getting the brunt of this angst?

Like a bad smell, something rotten was behind this.  In the ultimate wisdom of our unelected or perhaps elected, our men in uniform continue to assist, ‘brotherly nations’ in silly little matters of suppressing and killing their own. And why do we do this? I wonder how much we get paid for this.  Whatever the remuneration ‘package’, our poor citizens abroad, are paying for it.

In the coming weeks, on 14^th February 2012, it is the anniversary of the Pearl roundabout crack down I hope there will  be no Pakistani hurt or hurting anyone in Bahrain.